Centuries of footfall, millions of passerby, but few places just remain what they are meant to be. Even 900 years later.

Halebidu.

It was hot. Easily somewhere close to 35-38 degree out there. We are talking about walking around a temple entirely made of stone that cooks itself in the heat. Was hopping on my toes on my way inside. All that struggle, trauma of burning feet only until I got inside. Once inside.. It is grey, shadowy, cozy, cool.. alive! A place that resonates with your element. Shiva is worshipped here, a shrine built each for the king and the queen back then. Right in front of the shrine is a circular dance platform of 15 feet in diameter (Measured accurately with my own feet). They would adorn themselves, walk up the platform, and offer their dance to him. The Devadasis of the 12th Century. You stand there longer, you can hear the cymbals, the talamkattai, the silk shuffling. I heard it all.

This, I suppose is the magic of places such as these. They create a world for you, offer the ambience in a platter, to create a story, to live the story. For all the time I was in there, I was one from the 1100s dancing to offer myself to the lord himself. My arms, legs, feet, eyes, were all dancing, like they were being sung to.

The company helped too. They realized I need to drift away, that I had drifted away, and they let me be. The magic continued into the day. A heavy lunch and the heat.. Nap was in order. Got into Belur later in the afternoon. Found a nice cozy spot on the saalumantapa, which is a long stone corridor, with deity sculptures on the wall. Sprawled on the floor and napped. Woke up almost an hour later to thunderstorms and lightning seen at a distance. The boys were still sleeping/chilling. I let them be. Walked out towards the temple complex. The main temple looked crowded, so walked towards the one next to it. It belonged to Andal, also known as, Ranganayaki (Vishnu’s lady). The word can also mean, the nayaki of the ranga (stage). The shrine there houses probably the most beautiful sculpture I have ever seen. Her face. It’s a glowing universe of graciousness. Was dazzled. After staring at her for the longest I could, slowly walked around the temple. The walls around her temple are entirely carved with sculptures of goddesses and devadasis. Every inch of it.

With grey clouds above, moist wind surrounding, hair blowing, feet gliding, went around the temple, mimicking their poses. Each of them. Every one of them. I danced. Watching them, with them. So, I slipped into that realm again.By the end of it, I had completed an entire pradakshina. Walked back to the Ranganayaki for the one last look, so I can capture her illuminating allure and take it back with me.

Belur Halebidu. I am going back again.